16.2.13

SEAGRAM’S MFShow (F/W 2013-2014): DÍAS 1 Y 2

Este año hemos tenido la oportunidad de ser bloggers oficiales de Seagrams’ Gin MFShow, el privilegio de poder contaros desde primera línea de fuego todo los que los diseñadores adscritos a esta novedosa plataforma de promoción de la moda española tienen para ofrecernos.

Tres espacios diferentes han sido los anfitriones de cada una de las tres jornadas que han compuesto el inicio de lo que nosotros hemos decidido llamar “Semana de la Moda en Madrid”, puesto que más tarde sumaremos a ellas los cinco días que componen Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Pero no adelantemos acontecimientos, comencemos por el principio…

DÍA 1: MUSEO DEL TRAJE


Ésta se ha convertido en una de las localizaciones por excelencia de los desfiles de Seagrams’ Gin MFShow (alternando su hall de entrada para invierno y su patio adoquinado para verano) y allí realizamos la primera parada de esta edición para ver las propuestas de Nicholas & Atienza y de Jorge Acuña.

MFShow

Nicholas & Atienza

Mujeres con siluetas de los 40, previas a la inminente llegada del New Look de Dior (1947), saltaron a la pasarela con vestidos y trajes de chaqueta muy estructurados en los que se daba especial importancia a los hombros y la cintura (¿Y con cierta inspiración española por las aplicaciones en tocados y cierres?  A mí me lo pareció). Siempre sin perder el toque sexy con aberturas en faldas y prolongados escotes en V. Una atractiva propuesta en blanco, negro y rojo.

Nicholas Atienza OI 2013 2014

Jorge Acuña

De acuerdo que con él no solemos ser muy imparciales, pero conocer a un diseñador desde su primera colección es lo que tiene, que sin querer te implicas en su evolución como creador.

En esta ocasión, nos traslada a los años 20 sin perder su esencia: gran importancia de las espaldas escotadas como objeto de seducción, plisados, cero ataduras y constricciones, plumas de marabú en puños y cuellos, brillo y la irreverencia de salir en pijama (brocado en dorado, eso sí) a bailar, porque para eso estaba la locura de los 20, para romper las reglas. Y si te apetece ir a pasear con un moño deshecho y labial azul, lo haces.

*Nota: es cierto que la sensualidad de las prendas nos ha vuelto a conquistar, pero hemos visto más fuerza en sus anteriores temporadas.

Jorge-Acuna OI 2013 2014

DÍA 2: TELEFÓNICA FLAGSHIP STORE


Segunda jornada y segunda localización “emblemática”: el edificio de Telefónica de la Gran Vía madrileña. Ese espacio que se adivina magnífico por fuera pero que todos maldecimos a la hora de ver un desfile, porque las modelos bajan cuidadosas por la característica escalinata luminosa y corren como las madres por el resto de la pasarela para no romper el ritmo del desfile, por lo que terminas por no ver nada o casi nada.

Antonio García
Esta vez han sido los diseñadores de Antonio García (Antonio y Fernando García) los “afortunados” en presentar su colección otoño/invierno 2013-14 en la flagship store. Para ello han cogido el negro, el rojo y el topo para redibujar los clásicos que han conseguido posicionar a la costura española de mediados del siglo XX (Balenciaga, Pertegaz, etc.) como referente en la moda internacional.

Una colección de pura tendencia en cuanto a color, formas y predominio del estampado a rayas, el cual  promete asentarse esta primavera/verano en nuestros armarios. La pregunta es: ¿conseguirá aguantar su tendenciosa propuesta hasta el invierno de 2014?

antonio-garcia-OI-2013-2014

Y esto es lo que dieron de sí las dos primeras jornadas de Seagram’s Gin MFShow, pero aún quedaba por delante todo un viernes de desfiles y propuestas que chequear.

Take care,

Javo

*Pincha en el nombre de cada diseñador para ver la colección completa.

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